A Tribute to Jay Moriarity
“Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear’s healthy, panic’s deadly," said Frosty Hesson in Chasing Mavericks, capturing a profound lesson from Jay Moriarity’s extraordinary journey. While Jay’s story is one of incredible bravery and resilience, it’s also a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between embracing our fears and maintaining our composure.
As we reflect on Jay’s legacy and the impact of Chasing Mavericks, we honor his memory by exploring how his courageous spirit aligns with the values that drive Kitanica.
It’s been twelve years since Chasing Mavericks captivated audiences far beyond the surf community, from tiny surf community Santa Cruz to the heartlands of Iowa. Unlike many nature-based films that find acclaim within niche circles, Chasing Mavericks broke the mold. The film's powerful depiction of the immense and treacherous 60-foot waves resonated deeply with viewers, mirroring the awe-inspiring force of the waves themselves. Full of grit, heart, and hope, the movie delivers a poignant message that transcends surfing: Live Like Jay.
Jay Moriarity became the youngest surfer to conquer the legendary Mavericks—a formidable and enigmatic surf break in Half Moon Bay, California. Discovered in the 1960s by local surfer Jeff Clark, Mavericks was initially rumored to be home to some of the biggest waves on the California coast, rivaling those of Hawaii. Despite skepticism from many who doubted the claims, the surf community began to take notice as stories of the powerful waves spread from Northern California to Hawaii. Named after Clark’s dog, Mavericks drew surfers from around the globe, eager to test their skills against its fierce and unforgiving waves. From November through March, Mavericks produces some of the largest and most unpredictable waves in the world, embodying both the majesty and the peril of extreme surfing.
The inspiring film Chasing Mavericks chronicles the life of 16-year-old Jay Moriarity as he navigates his teenage years in Santa Cruz, California. Jay is portrayed as a soft-spoken young man with a deep emotional intensity and a heart of gold. The film dramatizes elements of Jay’s real life, including his father’s abandonment and his mother’s struggles with addiction. Despite these challenges, Jay focuses on caring for others rather than himself. The ocean, his sanctuary, provides him with solace.
A pivotal moment in Jay’s life occurs when he nearly drowns as a child but is saved by a mysterious surfer. He later discovers that this hero is his next-door neighbor, the renowned surf legend Frosty Hesson. Jay seeks Frosty’s mentorship, leading to a heartfelt and challenging journey. Frosty, initially reluctant but eventually persuaded by his wife, agrees to train Jay despite his own promise to never surf Mavericks again due to the risks involved.
As Jay and Frosty train together in the cold waters of Monterey Bay, their bond deepens. The film portrays a range of emotional experiences, including loss, addiction, and personal struggles, while highlighting moments of triumph and growth. Frosty, who has his own troubled past, becomes the father figure that both he and Jay lacked. The film builds up to a dramatic climax as Jay and his team face the formidable waves of Mavericks during a powerful El Niño storm, showcasing Jay’s courage and determination in the ultimate test of fear.
"Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear's healthy, panic's deadly," Frosty told Jay after a terrifying encounter with a Great White shark during a freediving breath-holding exercise. This lesson was crucial for surviving Mavericks, where being held underwater for minutes at a time is a guaranteed danger.
As Jay paddled towards the roaring 60-foot waves that threatened even the biggest boats carrying experienced surfers, he was determined not to let fear turn into panic. Pulling his wetsuit hood tight over his head and gripping his customized board—a birthday gift from Frosty—Jay joined the Mavericks veterans in the treacherous paddle-out.
The ocean, powerful and merciless, is epitomized by Mavericks. A single mistake can be fatal, yet a perfect moment can be exhilarating. Jay seized his opportunity and made history as the first 16-year-old to capture the most iconic wipeout at Mavericks. He free-fell 60 feet into the turbulent sea, battered by waves with the force of a collapsing building. Caught in a relentless churn, Jay was held underwater for about four minutes, with his surfboard leash snapping off. Miraculously, he resurfaced, gasping for air, and the beach erupted in applause.
Despite the awe and disbelief of onlookers, Jay, who came to symbolize the "Live Like Jay" motto, faced his fears with unyielding resolve. With a determined smile, he attempted his second wave at Mavericks, showcasing his incredible spirit. Jay not only survived but thrived, surfing his first Mavericks wave all the way to the shore, cementing his place in surfing history.
Jay Moriartry on Surfer Magazine's cover in 1995. This wipeout pose was dubbed "The Iron Cross," due to the wind having held up his board and his cross-like stature before his fall.
As Surfer Magazine reminds us, "Live Like Jay doesn't mean you have to be a tough, big-wave surfer. Jay knew that, even for him, that would eventually end. It means find out what you're here for and follow it. Be true to yourself and treat others well.”
Jay embodied this message, touching everyone he knew with his spirit and tenacity. He led with kindness, appreciation, and an unwavering passion for life. He reminds us to live each day fully, to cherish even the small moments, and to pursue what makes us burn bright. Jay’s light shone so brightly that it was inevitable he would one day encounter a force of equal strength. His vibrant life was tragically dimmed just one day before his 23rd birthday. Taken by the ocean in a freediving accident, Jay returned to his eternal underwater home. His story encourages us to live with perseverance, kindness, and courage, facing fear without panic. Death is just a horizon in the grand scope of our lives—a horizon beyond our sight—and it should never stop us from embracing each day in the present.
Jay Moriartry at home in the water, courtesy of surfertoday.
Inspiration Beyond the Waves: How Jay Moriarity’s Legacy Inspires Us At Kitanica
Reflecting on Jay Moriartry's story makes it abundantly clear that his spirit and bravery lives on in the hearts of those who knew him to strangers touched by his impact. His experiences serve as powerful reminders of the importance of facing our fears with courage and maintaining our composure in the face of adversity.
Jay's life and achievements remain a profound inspiration to many. His journey at Mavericks taught us about facing fears with courage and determination. At Kitanica, we deeply respect the values Jay embodied—resilience, bravery, and an unwavering spirit.
Inspired by Jay’s story, we strive to reflect these values in our gear. Our commitment to durability and performance is driven by the same spirit of adventure and perseverance that Jay demonstrated. We believe that with the right support, everyone can embrace their challenges with confidence, much like Jay did.
This blog is dedicated to Jay Moriarity and his family. We honor Jay’s legacy by striving to uphold the values he represented. Our thoughts are with his loved ones as we remember and celebrate his remarkable life and achievements.
